http://preo.ube.fr/territoiresduvin/index.php?id=2182 Entrées d’index fr 0 http://preo.ube.fr/territoiresduvin/index.php?id=2175 Très ancienne culture, la Chine a très tôt développé un intérêt fort pour l’élaboration et la consommation du thé, comme l’atteste le temple de l’Institut Royal du Thé de la Dynastie Tang à Changxing. Yu Lu (733-804) peut être considéré comme le père fondateur de la culture du thé de terroir : le meilleur thé pour l’Empereur, issu des meilleurs lieux pour le produire, avec les variétés les plus appropriées. L’une d’entre elles, unique en un terroir particulier, se manifeste par un port de feuille original et reconnaissable avec évidence. Il existe donc des « Hauts-lieux » pour la culture du thé comme il existe des « Hauts-lieux » pour la culture de la vigne. Cette culture du thé retrouve toute sa vigueur aujourd’hui, mais depuis quelques années on assiste également à un fort intérêt pour le vin, en particulier pour les grands vins de terroir dont la Bourgogne est le modèle. Nous explorons le sens de cet intérêt grandissant chez ces amateurs de vin et de thé. The great American and Japanese amateurs exploded the export of great French, Italian, Spanish wines, in the post-World War II era. Henri Jayer's Cros Parantoux, which became legendary and one of the world's two most expensive wines, began its career in Los Angeles and Tokyo the same year, in 1980. In the 1990s, when wine became a household name the drink of globalization, the rarest wines were synonymous with social success. Every entrepreneur, banker, surgeon, lawyer, executive .must drink the greatest, most wanted and most expensive wines in the restaurant and if possible own them. It was normal for China, which emerged as the great emerging power of the 21st century, to make Hong Kong a link between it and old Europe, the new stronghold of fine wine.If we find in Hong Kong the most prestigious wines of the moment, whether they are of European origin or the so-called New World countries (California, New Zealand, Chile, Australia...), we will question the meaning of the growing interest in local wines in China. Indeed, today’s great wines bring together the greatest regional wines in the world, Romanée- Conti, Cros Parantoux and Montrachet in the lead, but also the greatest wines from the construction of a taste, whose Grange Penfold (South Australia) or Screaming Eagle (California) can be considered models. For these, the hand of man is dominant, for the first ones it’s the message of the place that counts.Requested since a few years to animate and intervene in an annual symposium in Shanghai, "Terroir, Renaissance", with geo-sensory tasting workshops (master class) and having proposed to several renowned Burgundy winegrowers to intervene, led by Aubert de Villaine, co-manager of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, we were surprised by the exceptional enthusiasm of the Chinese for this type of wine: a wine that delivers the message of its birthplace. By birth place, we mean places that are recognized by man as capable of producing with regularity wines with original taste, recognizable by tasting, a geo-sensory tasting. These viticultural "high-places" who give the wines that come from them a singular taste that the amateur likes to recognize, even "blindly", during a tasting where the bottle label has been masked.Organizing tours of vineyards and tastings among the great Burgundian winemakers, we were able to observe the speed at which the great amateurs and professionals of Chinese wine increased their understanding of what we call "Knowledge of the terroir and geo-tasting". -sensory ". Some have already acquired the ability to recognize, "blindly", the main Burgundy vineyards: Pommard, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, and even "climates" the most emblematic: Chambertin, Richebourg, Tâche, Clos- de-Tart...The hypothesis that we emit is that China, culture as old and complex as France, has a long tradition of tea’s terroir, the most delicate silks coming from judiciously chosen places, a cooking of soil to the unequaled diversity, a spiritual tradition in full revival, so an interest for the culture of the wine of soil which imposes itself as one of the most sophisticated of the planet. Having visited the temple of the Royal Tang Dynasty Tea Institute in Changxing, we understood that Yu Lu (733-804) can be considered as the founding father of the tea culture of the soil: the best tea for the Emperor, from the best places to produce it, with the most appropriate varieties. One of them, unique in a particular terroir, is manifested by a port of original leaf and recognizable with evidence. There are therefore "high places" for the cultivation of tea as there are "high places" for the cultivation of the vine.To cross the thousand-year-old adventure of the tea of terroir, with that millennium history too of the wine of French terroir, is a cultural and sensory exercise which attracts more and more Chinese amateurs, eager to reconnect with their culture and having considerable means for satisfy their thirst! These great Chinese amateurs belong to the Chinese upper classes, entrepreneurs, business executives, hospitality and catering executives, senior executives, surgeons We could have feared, in the 2000s, the disappearance of these local products, to the benefit of the global luxury products resulting from the construction of tastes and propelled by a powerful marketing. The opposite has happened, the original products are wanted by those who have succeeded in life. Appreciating and possessing these wines or these original teas, is one of the major symbols of social success and the cultural distinction that goes with it. As Aubert de Villaine writes, who chaired the association which obtained the recognition of the "climates" of Burgundy vineyards as a UNESCO World Heritage Site: "Faced with the threat of standardization of tastes, driven by the globalization of cultures and the globalization of the markets, our products which have an origin, which are the reflection of our cultural identity, open, it seems to me, exciting avenues for the construction of sustainable territorial policies. This is why the rules for protecting these local cultural identities are essential, provided of course that these lands and territories are understood as living heritage1.In this period of globalization, local products are sought after and valued because they are seen as the natural expression of the place: "a combined work of man and nature. " These products are more and more wanted and coveted. The great teas of Chinese soils and the great wines of "climates" from Burgundy are the perfect illustration. In addition, they participate in the vast ecological movement for the protection of the environment, whose local products, stemming from "good viticultural practices", are the spearhead. ven., 22 oct. 2021 12:14:30 +0200 mar., 07 déc. 2021 15:45:07 +0100 http://preo.ube.fr/territoiresduvin/index.php?id=2175